The chef concludes his culinary explorations with the trifle. His surprising starting point is the boxed variety, but disappointed by the results, he is soon in more usual territory with trips to Spain and Holland hunting for sherry and the creamiest custard. As ever, taking his pursuit of perfection to the extreme, he milks a cow directly into a bowl of cider and sees a tampon used to demonstrate how people's taste receptors can become blocked.
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