Mark Twain arrived in Athens only to spend 11 days anchored off the coast in quarantine. He managed to escape under cover of darkness and was rewarded with the spectacle of the Acropolis by moonlight. Irma has a less dramatic, but still enjoyable, visit with the young English writer Sofka Zinovieff.
She visits a little Byzantine church on Mount Lykavettos, travels on the new metro and dodges the Athens traffic to meet the celebrated author of On the Misery of Being Greek, Nicos Dimou. Famous cookery writer and veteran of two Athenian husbands, Diana Farr Louis, then discusses the Greek way of living, loving and eating with Irma.
Finally, in the company of the travel writer Dana Facaros, Irma escapes to the islands and attends the last religious festival of the year - the feast of Agios Nektarios on the Isle of Aegina. On her return to Athens she reflects on the contradictions and joys of modern day Greece.
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