The footloose foodie reaches Punjab and christens his newly purchased tandoor oven with a recipe for kebabs of paneer and the inevitable tandoori chicken. At the Golden Temple of Amritsar, the holiest shrine of the Sikhs, he discovers an army of volunteer caterers preparing up to 30,000 meals a day to serve - without charge - to visitors of all creeds and races. Other recipes on offer include mutton rogan josh, a minced lamb dish with yoghurt, spinach and spices, and a selection of deep-fried vegetables in batter
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